Poached pork belly, coconut and black pudding vinaigrette, black pudding crumble
By François Chartier, author of Taste buds and Molecules
When curiosity drives you and you find yourself on a perpetual quest for aromatic understanding, as I have been for the last twenty-five years of my career, a simple discussion between guests around a dining table can prove to be the catalyst for an unexpectedly rich path of research …
In November 2009, during a Montreal winemaker dinner I had created around the great wines of Spanish winemaker Àlvaro Palacios, a discussion took place about one of the dishes I had designed on the aromatic path of lactones family. A Molecular Biologist who was sharing the table with us that evening informed me of the following “Following a shortage of saline during World War II, the wounded were given a solution composed of…coconut water!”
On the way home that evening, I simply could not get the story out of my mind. Before going to bed, I delved in my science books and surfed credible scientific Websites to learn more about this coconut water saline business! I learned that coconut water has the same electrolyte as is found in human blood. This explains the use of the coconut water saline in times of war – something you will be well aware to remember should you ever find yourself stranded on a desert island…
From human blood to pig blood – pork meat being rich in lactones –, my taste buds became one, and, eureka! The aromatic path of the aromatic power of attraction between the lactones in black pudding (blood sausage) and those in the water and milk of the coconut was paved.
What followed was an impressive amount of delirious recipe possibilities! One of which I developed with my friend chef Stéphane Modat and published in one of my books (Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules). You can find detailed information on the lactones family in Volume I of the book Taste buds and Molecules. This dish stemmed from my seemingly incongruous idea:
“Poached pork belly, coconut and black pudding vinaigrette, black pudding crumble”.
Based on this “historic” aromatic path, we now know that pork meat, including black pudding, also shares the same aromatic lactones as apricot, peach, pecan, as well as Tawny Port, Cognac, Bourbon, aged dark rum and Scotch…and of course, coconut!
Furthermore, this also scientifically explains a dish that chefs have long intuited, empirically: the classic duo that is pork roast stuffed with apricots.
So, why not have fun switching things up? By replacing the apple typically served with black pudding, the classic bistro dish “par excellence”, you will get an entirely different dish! Try serving blood pudding with a peach or apricot salsa, or an original peach and coconut sauce, sprinkled with a crumble of toasted Bourbon pecans.
The aromatic power of attraction between the lactones found in all of these foods will result in harmony on the plate, and ultimately, the success of these innovative recipes. It will also give you the freedom to choose the ingredients and how you prepare them. Rest assured that no matter how or what you cook with these ingredients, recipe there will be!
That is the aromatic synergy of Taste buds and Molecules.
Inspiration is not always found where we most expect it …
From experiencing the harmony between a wine and a dish built around foods from the lactones family, as told in the beginning of this story, we moved on to a discussion about the Second World War. Then the idea of linking pig’s blood, in this case black pudding, and coconut, came to me. The result is a new dish that can morph into many other recipes, each more original than the next!
Granted, this is a very unusual way to create, but I assure you, it is a highly satisfactory one!
Finally, given that pork, black pudding, coconut, pecan, apricot and peach are foods rich in lactones, wines that are just as rich in lactones should be favored to achieve the desired harmonic comfort zone. Whether you choose red or white, favor wines that were barrel-raised, ideally aged on lees and stirred – which increases lactones and amplifies milky flavors in wines.
As for white wines, choose one in which the dominant grape is Roussanne, also known to generate coconut, apricot and peach aromas (all from the lactones family). When it comes to choosing a red wine, you should select country or regional vintages, or vintages from warmer years. Make sure they were barreled-raised and present very ripe and bold tannins. These qualities can be found in wines made with Grenache/Garnacha, Cabernet, Tempranillo, Merlot or Zinfandel grapes.
Should you prefer white wine, try decanting the wine and serving it at higher than usual temperatures of more or less 14-15 ºC. This will make a tremendous difference. Try whites from the Rhône Valley, Languedoc or Roussillon regions.
You could also serve something a bit feistier than wine. For example, try serving an American Bourbon or a very old dark rum, such as those from Guyana, especially the remarkable El Dorado 12 year old Special Reserve Demarera Rum.
If you are a Scotch aficionado, you can opt for one of the penetrating and heavily woody Macallan vintages, which are raised in barrels previously used to age Sherry. Here is another interesting tidbit of information: all Sherries are “full lactones” wines!
Needless to say, this was a highly creative encounter between science, history and intuition. And it is exactly what you are invited to experience as you follow the aromatic and harmonic paths published in Volume I of Taste buds and Molecules!
François Chartier is the instigator of the principle of molecular harmony and sommelerie, a new aromatic science of food and wines, the theses of which were published in his book Taste buds and Molecules.
Molecular harmony and sommellerie, researched and written by François Chartier, author of Taste buds and Molecules
In recent years, the secular devotion that humans have for chocolate has reached an astounding record high. Thanks to studies demonstrating how rich in antioxidants dark chocolate is, we went from mainly consuming milk chocolate to swooning over the noble and mysterious bitterness of dark chocolate with a high cocoa content.
The idea that we are protecting our cells by eating more chocolate than ever also allows us to “eat better”. That is to say, we have grown to enjoy savoring chocolates that have an abundance of flavors, as more aromatic, complex and intense flavors now linger on our palates. By the same token, this global phenomenon has also helped us embrace more bitter flavors. The higher the concentration of cocoa there is in chocolate, the more pronounced the bitter flavors are. This, however, is not the case with milk chocolate. Because bitter flavors are veiled by the fat content in milk and its derivatives, milk chocolate is sweet, not bitter.
The beauty of the whole thing is that these antioxidants and other bitter flavors are triggered by the presence of various compounds in cocoa, and therefore, in dark chocolate with more than 70% cocoa content. Funny enough, these same compounds are also present in a number of wines. There compounds are: phenolic compounds (antioxidants), with astringent flavors; and anthocyanin pigments, which are, among others, the color pigments of red wines. The presence of these only strengthens the pairing of dark chocolate with wines and other liquids rich in phenolic compounds and anthocyanins.
However, this is not where the strong links between cocoa and certain types of liquids end. Due to the browning reaction between amino acids and sugars, roasting cocoa beans produces countless new volatile compounds. This is exactly the same phenomenon that occurs when the inside of oak barrels are scorched prior to being filled with wines and other liquids. It is also interesting to know that, thus far, over 600 volatile compounds have been discovered in chocolate.
These are mostly compounds such as pyrazines (vegetal/humid soil aroma, and roasted products), furaneol (toasted sugar/red fruit), maltol (cotton candy/burnt sugar), diacetyl (butter/cream), linalool (floral) and benzaldehyde (bitter almond/stone fruit), to name a few. These are all from the families of aromatic molecules also found in a wide variety of wines, beers and other liquids. And it is especially true with red wines aged in oak barrels, rich in both phenols and anthocyanins, as well as the above aromatic compounds. Even though these are typically dry wines, pairing them with dark chocolate that has a high cocoa content is incredibly inspiring!
We can also rely on a vast majority of sweet non-fortified wines that are not muscat-based, such as Banyuls, Maury, Rasteau and Rivesaltes, in addition to Ports, Madeiras, Oloroso and PX Solera Sherries. Furthermore, black ale and dark beers, barrel-raised fruit brandies (eaux-de-vie) such as Cognac, Armagnac, Scotch, Bourbon and aged dark rums are also a wonderful match.
Sadly, you can pretty much forget Champagne! Because they have no parent molecule, there simply is no power of attraction between Champagne and chocolate. However, this all changes when you add toasted sesame seeds, toasted sesame oil or roasted peanuts to dark chocolate. All three ingredients will create a strong synergy between dark chocolate and the aromas of the Maillard Reaction displayed in certain Champagnes, such as in the Bollinger Brut. Nevertheless, for the union between dark chocolate and Champagne to occur, it is imperative you use very dark chocolate with over 75% of cocoa content. Finally, note that white chocolate can also be paired with some of the highly dosed, and therefore sweeter, Champagnes.
MY LIQUID HARMONIES FOR DARK CHOCOLATE
LA MONTESA 2008
Rioja, Bodegas Palacios Remondo, Spain
$19.75 (SAQ-10556993) ***(*)$$ FULL-BODIED
What a nose - racy, deep, pure, intense and just as spicy as the previous vintage! A wine of great aromatic range! Once it has been decanting for a while, it also plays in the sphere of pepper and garrigue, as well as notes of roasting and cloves. As always, this is done with restraint and elegance. The wine is at once gathered and creamy, dense and cool. Its roasted and spicy profile will pair perfectly with 85% dark chocolate, as with more savory desserts made with dark chocolate and coffee, and especially, with toasted sesame seeds. It also masterfully unites with our recipe for coffee-flavored puffed wild rice (from the book Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules), to accompany either cheddar cheese or grilled meat, or our recipe for Mc_2 Soyable sauce (also in the same book). Feel free to increase the amount of coffee slightly, both with the chocolate and with the sauce. The harmony will resonate even louder if you pair dark chocolate with the roasted tones of a red Rioja made with 45% Grenache, 40% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano and Mazuelo grapes!
CANASTA CREAM
Xérès Oloroso, Williams & Humbert, Spain
$13.95 (SAQ-416966) **(*)$ MEDIUM +
For those who are unfamiliar with the world of Sherry, this Oloroso is the perfect introduction. It is also a great alternative to Port and will surely satisfy one’s sweet tooth when served with dark chocolate. It displays intoxicating flavors of cumin, coffee, nuts and caramel. Moreover, the wine’s suave and caressing, almost creamy texture, will be as one with a multitude ingredients that are complementary to this style of wine. Try cooking recipes dominated, among others, by dark chocolate, coffee, cinnamon and cloves, but also curry, dates, dried figs, toasted fenugreek seeds, toasted coconut, soy sauce, maple syrup, vanilla and smoked black teas.
DOMAINE LA TOUR VIEILLE RESERVA
Banyuls, Vincent Cantie et Christine Campadieu, France
$25.70 (SAQ-884916) ***(*)$$($) MEDIUM+
This reserve is, as always, chocolaty and fruity. It is of an exhilarating aromatic purity, which greatly transforms as the wine blooms in the glass. In a style that is almost ethereal, the mouth-feel is simultaneously penetrating and misty. It has a fine, light texture in which the fine-grained tannins and velvety amplitude of flavors are in perfect harmony. The long lingering finale conjures up notes of brandied cherry, cocoa and hazelnut. A dark chocolate cake soaked with a coffee sauce or cardamom-scented chocolate truffles will pair brilliantly with this sweet non-fortified wine made with Grenache Noir grapes. Ditto for our focaccia flavored with cloves and caramelized, melting blue cheese (from the book Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules).
Saint-Ambroise Noire
Oatmeal Stout, McAuslan Brewery, Montreal, Québec, Canada
(Available in all convenience and grocery stores) *** FULL-BODIED
Lovers of very dark chocolate with high cocoa contents will be in heaven if they follow my advice and serve a dark beer from one of Quebec’s microbreweries. This stout is one of the friendliest, most fragrant, roasted and chocolaty of its kind. Forget the scouring bitterness of Guinness – which, of course, is not a flaw - and think instead of voluptuous curves, as well as tangy and bewitching flavors, reminding us of a tight shot of espresso, 70% cocoa, smoke and ashes. This is truly one of the finest stouts to be enjoyed at the table. Serve it cool, not cold, in a flared red wine glass. Also note that it works wonders with our Mc_2 Soyable sauce (from the book Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules). This sauce can be used to glaze fish and meat, and it also blends masterfully with a dark chocolate ganache. This stout is also perfect to use in a Black Velvet cocktail.
Here is my recipe:
Cocktail : Black Velvet
(Black ale or stout and sparkling wine or Champagne)
This great British classic from the universe of cocktails deserves to be rediscovered. Even better, it goes perfectly well with dark chocolate!
So easily concocted, it has two ingredients: dark ale or stout and sparkling wine or Champagne.
All you need to do is fill half a Champagne flute with stout and top delicately with sparkling wine. The idea is to keep the two liquids separate (as they don’t have the same density), by gently pouring the sparkling wine on the back of a spoon, directly on top of the stout.
You can choose a dark ale from one of Quebec’s microbreweries, such as: the Saint-Ambroise Noire, which I have already suggested in this text; the very chocolaty Simple Malt Impériale Stout from Brasseurs Illimités in Saint-Eustache; or the espresso and cocoa Imperial Stout from L’Alchimiste in Joliette.
For the aromatic synergy to work with the beer, choose a sparkling wine with aromas of brioche and roasting, such as the Prestige Moingeon Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne ($21.55, SAQ 871277).
Should you prefer Champagne, why not choose one of the most toasted: the Pol Roger Brut ($61.75, SAQ 051953).
Copyrights 2012
By Martin Loignon, Ph.D. Molecular Biologist.
Whether a truffle is black or white, its exceptional flavour and rarity along with the ancestral manner in which it is harvested, which requires the presence of a canine or porcine “tracker”, all contribute to its reputation as a quasi-mythical fungus. As the truffle is buried underground, only the great sense of smell dogs and pigs are gifted with is sensitive enough to detect its fragrance, sole indicator of its presence. It is given the French name “truffe”, meaning the nose or snout of these sweet harvest companions.
The rarity of the Périgord black truffle is partly due to the fact that it requires specific soil and climatic conditions as it lives in symbiosis with the oak trees of south-west France, colonizing their roots and exchanging nutriments. Its reproduction system is also very complex; making it nearly impossible to cultivate.
It is also known that the black truffle cohabits with an indigenous microbial flora composed of various microorganisms. Moreover, it has long been believed that these microorganisms were at least partially responsible for the exceptional aromas of the truffle, as are those of raw milk cheeses and wines. We now know that the truffle draws within itself, in its geneticbackground, the ability to produce the aromas so highly prized by epicureans.
A European team headed by Dr Francis Martin from the Institut National Français de Recherche en Agriculture recently published the genome sequence and annotated the 125 megabases* of the Périgord black truffle’s DNA, also known under its Latin name Tuber melanosporum. The study published in the prestigious scientific journal Nature reports that the genome of the Tuber melanosporum is the most complex fungal genome that has been sequenced thus far, and the analysis of these sequences has allowed the identification of 7,496 coded genes for as many proteins.
Proteins accomplish numerous vital functions for organisms by playing roles that are essential in the structure, metabolism, defence and reproduction mechanisms. Certain proteins specialize in the transformation of other proteins and various molecules, designated as substrates, such as amino acids, glucids and lipids. The proteins specialized in the modification of substrates are called enzymes and they act as catalysts, accelerating biochemical reactions. The transformations catalyzed by enzymes can take many forms, and may be either subtle or radical.
Synthesis and degradation represent radical forms of enzymatic transformation as they change the properties of the substrates. This type of reaction frequently occurs during the production of aromatic molecules. For example, the degradation of odourless colour pigments can lead to the production of highly aromatic molecules. It is the case with safranal, which is present in saffron, paprika, black tea and grapefruit, or even the beta-ionone present in raspberries, carrots, apricots and mango. Both are born from the degradation of carotenoids, organic pigments ranging from yellow to orange to deep red, which are naturally present in a variety of foods.
The study by Dr Martin’s team has prompted the discovery of the black truffle’s numerous enzymes that are implicated in the production of aromatic molecules containing sulphur. The sulphur-containing molecules produced include methanethiol, 3-metoxy propanol, dimethyl sulphide, dimethyl bisulfide and dimethyl trisulfide. These molecules are largely responsible for the aromatic signature of the truffle. Granted, each of these molecules emits a sulphurous odour, they also remind us of the smell of garlic, onion and meat, in addition to exuding vegetal notes. Collectively, the mixture of aromas produced by the black truffle also reminds us of musk and of soil, which has led some admirers to qualify as “sexy”.
In addition to revealing the secrets of how the aromas essential to the fragrance of the Périgord black truffle are produced, its genetic characterization has allowed us to learn a lot more on the symbiotic relation it maintains with the oak tree and on its mechanisms of reproduction. This major advancement in our knowledge on the Périgord black truffle will enable us to better understand the obstacles in its culture and also define the precise genetic fingerprint of this species, distinguishing it from the Chinese black truffle, which is frequently sold under false pretence.
To learn more about this research, you are welcome to read the article in its entirety.
*A megabase is the equivalent of 1,000,000 bases, which are the letters of the genetic code alphabet. Copyrights 2011 All rights reserved. For any commercial use, please contact:
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