Taste Buds and Molecules
Tuesday, 18 January 2011 14:34

Chartier’s harmonic exercises with Penfolds

penfolds

The great Australian house Penfolds, world-famous for its large range of quality wines, briefly visited Montreal in November 2009.  They took the opportunity to present brand new wines from their exclusive line Cellar Reserve Wines, a recent series of great signature wines in extremely limited quantity.

For the occasion, renowned winemaker Peter Gago personally asked me to create a menu from scratch inspired by his wines as well as my research on molecular harmonies and sommellerie.  I had the pleasure of creating the course, which was presented at the restaurant Toqué!, with house chefs Normand Laprise and Charles-Antoine Crête.

Since we wanted you to have fun with these wines at home even if you’re not a stove chef and to demonstrate their versatility at the table, here are a few trails you can easily follow in order to highlight the new range of refined wines.


We set the table with a surprising gewürztraminer presenting a subtle and European freshness that is extremely rare under the Australian sun.  Its sapid body and subtle flavors that are not of the usual litchi/rose typicality, but rather in the world of apple/pear/peach, had put me on the trail of ingredients sharing the same dominant volatile components as apple and pear.  It is the case with nori, carrots, quince, cinnamon, fresh figs, honey, apples, grapes, licorice, saffron, and thyme (see my recipe suggestions in the commentary on the three wines).

Then, an ultra-refined chardonnay followed - quite concentrated, great freshness, electrifyingly mineral, and decent alcohol percentage, detailing notes of hazelnuts, grilled almonds and glazed lemon.  Since it has a very burgundy aspect, cook it with recipes where hazelnut-complementary ingredients are dominant, as for instance peanuts, coffee, shrimps, roasted barley, soy sauce, tofu, and vanilla.

For special occasions, the range of excellent wines, also comprising a refreshing Pinot Noir Cellar Reserve 2007, a juicy and explosive Sangiovese Cellar Reserve 2006 and a classically Australian Cabernet Sauvignon Cellar Reserve 2006, is completed by a great Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005 combination.  A “cab/shiraz” combination that shows itself to be powerfully aromatic, opulent, quite tannic and dense, with extroverted flavors of blackberry liquor, smoke, tar, clove, violet and pepper.
At the table, while considering the information conveyed in my book Taste Buds and Molecules, dare to cook a recipe where the dominance will be either one of these ingredients complementary to pepper (lamb, nori, juniper, black olives, oranges, thyme, saffron) or one of the foods of the same aromatic family as clove (oil-roasted asparagus, thai basil, grilled beef, coffee, cinq-épices, strawberry, rosemary, vanilla).

Menu

menu_penfolds_toque

By Chartier’s & Toqué!

Penfolds

Friday, November 6th, 2009

Scallops marinated in cranberry water, tequila and ginger, citronella oil, lime, and wasabi mousse.

Gewürztraminer Cellar Reserve Penfolds 2008


Razor clams, matsutake mushrooms, mashed potatoes, grilled hazelnuts, poultry broth with jasmine tea, peperoncino oil.

Chardonnay Cellar Reserve Penfolds 2007


Pan-seared duck foie gras, raspberry water, carrot sugar, ras el hanout powder and jelly, almond-concentrated almonds.

Pinot Noir Cellar Reserve Penfolds 2007


Star anise pork flank and smoked fat steam buns, mustard-seasoned quince and wulong tea mash, grilled peanuts and thai basil oil.

Sangiovese Cellar Reserve Penfolds 2006


12-hour braised beef shoulder, gremolata and tuberous chervil, meat broth and licorice oil, smoked potato and black garlic mash.

Cabernet Sauvignon Cellar Reserve Penfolds 2006
&
Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz Cellar Reserve Penfolds 2005


Red Etampes squash cake, maple cream, curry dacquoise, clementine and squash ice cream, Kurdish black pepper infusion.

Penfolds Grandfather Fine Old Liqueur Tawny

The pictures of the Penfolds event are available on Papilles et Molécules Flickr page.