"I’m reading a new book, “Tastebuds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food, Wine and Flavor’’ by François Chartier, an extraordinary high-wire wine-and-food pairing equivalent of molecular gastronomy. Not surprisingly, the book is endorsed by Ferran Adrià and Juli Soler of El Bulli, with whom Mr. Chartier, a French-Canadian wine and food writer, worked closely for several seasons at their restaurant. Without offering too much detail, “Tastebuds and Molecules’’ goes astoundingly deep into the science of flavors, offering advanced techniques for matching foods and wines." Eric Asimov, The New York Times

"Sommeliers who work with these unconventional dishes often speak with admiration of Canadian François Chartier. His book Taste Buds and Molecules, to be released in the US this spring, breaks down food and wine pairing to the molecular level. But most admit that the only one who comes close to Chartier’s heretical rigor is Chartier himself." Wine &Spirits Magazine

I met Francois Chartier in his hometown of Montreal last June. Young,passionate, and a rare talent, Chartier is among the two or three most articulate and intellectual thinkers I have met...

http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showthread.php?t=238767

 

Another great review for Francois Chartier’s best selling book “Taste Buds and Molecules”  - this review was just posted on the Wine Spectator Website – written by Harvey Steiman as a follow-up to his previous review and meeting with Francois Chartier

by Harvey Steiman at large, Wine Spectator 

Posted: Feb 20, 2012 11:27am ET

 It is worth casting a skeptical eye on received wisdom about wine. So much of what we think we know turns out to be wrong. Early in my gastronomic career I grabbed the wrong glass and inadvertently took a sip of red wine with my grilled salmon, only to find that it made better music in my mouth than the white wine next to it. That called into question one of wine’s hoariest myths (white wine with fish). The day I twisted off a cap of a 10-year-old Riesling, I discovered a gorgeously aged white wine that disproved the widely believed notion that screw-capped wines can’t age.

Received wisdom takes a beating in Taste Buds and Molecules by François Chartier. An English-language translation (Wiley, $37) has now been published for the first time in the United States. Based in Montreal and nicknamed the “molecular sommelier,” Chartier questions everything we think we know about matching wine and food. With my imperfect French I could get the gist from the French-language edition, published in 2010, and from interviews I did with him in English. But seeing the book in English is the real eye-opener. It opens up whole new worlds of food and wine possibilities.

Curious about why certain wines resonate with some foods and not with others, Chartier did his own groundbreaking research into what they had in common chemically. The information was not easy to find. No one had ever pulled it all together before. What he discovered was a universe of similarities at the molecular level that make, for example, the aromatics of anise, mint and oregano so perfectly compatible with Sauvignon Blanc. Or why mature white wines and Sauternes have affinities with curry, figs and, surprisingly, maple syrup.

The chapter on oak caught my eye. So many uninformed experts tell us that we must avoid wines with noticeable oak flavors at the table because they clash with food. Chartier proves otherwise. First, he describes the process of toasting barrels and the chemical compounds the process produces. These include malitol (which has the aroma of caramel), eugenol (identical to the primary aromatic in cloves), and lactones (found in coconuts and apricots). Also, a family of chemicals called furfurols, produced in abundance during malolactic fermentation.

His list of “complementary foods for barrel-raised wines” includes anything cooked on a grill or flavored with smoke (which may explain why oaky wines are so popular in California, where we eat a lot of grilled and smoked foods), and anything flavored with spices such as cardamom or clove, but also coffee, Madeira, tea or walnuts.

Chartier spent years visiting Ferran Adrià and Juli Soler of El Bulli restaurant in Spain, working with them at the restaurant before it closed last year. In their warm foreword for the book, impressed by Chartier’s audacious mixture of science and taste, they call him “the number one expert on flavors” they know.
When the French-language edition came out, Chartier and I spent a couple of days tweaking foods to match with wines. Most memorably, he showed how simply infusing coconut into a sauce created a link with a distinctly oaky red wine. That compatibility wasn’t there without the (adjusted) sauce.

The book is full of nuggets like that, amply backed by science and formidable taste experience. If the chemical names seem daunting, just peruse the graphics. They can open whole new worlds of food-and-wine pairings for any of us. Typically, the hand-drawn illustrations focus on a particular family of chemicals found in both wine and food, grouped around the center. Linked to each aromatic chemical are foods and ingredients that contain it. In effect, they’re interchangeable in finding affinities between the food and wine containing them.

Anyone who cares about wine-and-food matching must study this book. It’s ingenious. Amazingly, this accomplishment only scratches the surface. So many more chemicals, food and wine types remain to be explored. But this is a phenomenal start.

http://www.winespectator.com/
http://www.winespectator.com/blogs/show/id/46420

An aromatic and delicious treatment for braised lamb shanks

Posted: January 17, 2012 in Wine Spectator

Note: Recipe courtesy of sommelier François Chartier, author of Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food with Wine(McClelland & Stewart 2010) • 3 lamb shanks, about 1/2 pound each (have the butcher cut them into 3 pieces for osso buco)  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste  • 1 tablespoon olive oil  • 3 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped  • 1 onion, roughly chopped  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped  • 2 pods star anise  • 1 teaspoon fennel seed  • 3 tablespoon pastis or anisette liqueur  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste  • 3 cups chicken broth

Photo Studio/Kitchen_Mc2 --Sauvignon Blanc makes a surprisingly successful match with this dish, because it share a key aromatic component with anise.

1. Season the shanks with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the oil in a wide saucepan or skillet, and brown the shanks on all sides. Remove shanks from the pan, and set aside.

2. Add the carrots, onion and garlic to the pan, and cook briefly. Add the star anise and fennel seed, and finally the pastis. Stir and scrape to dissolve any browned bits, then stir in the tomato paste and chicken broth.

3. Return the shanks to the pan, cover, and bring to a boil. Transfer the pan to a 325° F. oven. After 2 hours, test the tenderness of the lamb; it should be very soft and tender when pierced by a knife. Remove the shanks, and skim as much of the fat from the gravy as possible.

4. Serve the lamb, over polenta, with the sauce and vegetables. Serves 6.

http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/46282

(In French)

COMMUNIQUÉ Pour diffusion immédiate

Montréal, le 13 octobre 2011 – L’Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ) aura le privilège de remettre un diplôme honoris causa au chef catalan Ferran Adrià, l’une des figures emblématiques de la gastronomie internationale, le 22 novembre prochain, lors de sa cérémonie annuelle de remise des diplômes qui aura lieu à l’hôtel Marriott Château Champlain. Celui qui a fondé et dirigé jusqu’en juillet dernier, le célèbre restaurant El Bulli, titulaire de trois étoiles Michelin et désigné « meilleur restaurant au monde » à cinq reprises par la revue britannique Restaurant, a accepté avec enthousiasme l’invitation qui lui a été faite par la direction de l’ITHQ. Par ce geste, cette dernière désire saluer la contribution de ce cuisinier et penseur, souvent associé à la gastronomie moléculaire, et son impact sur l’évolution de l’art culinaire contemporain. 

Une semaine Ferran Adrià à l’ITHQ

À l’occasion de son passage à l’Institut, M. Adrià prononcera une conférence intitulée « La cuisine comme langage » à laquelle seront conviés des élèves et des professeurs de l’ITHQ ainsi qu’un groupe limité de professionnels de la restauration. Le chef Adrià n’a pas voulu préciser la nature de ses propos, mais a ajouté que sa présentation serait accompagnée de documents vidéo. 

De plus, le Restaurant de l’Institut proposera à sa clientèle des plats inspirés de la philosophie culinaire de ce chef hors norme qui a su renouveler la cuisine traditionnelle de son pays. Ce menu thématique sera en vigueur du 28 novembre au 22 décembre prochains, pour le repas du soir.

Diplômes et honoris causa

Considérant Ferran Adrià comme un modèle de créativité et d’audace pour ses élèves, l’ITHQ est honoré qu’une personnalité de cette envergure accepte de venir à leur rencontre pour transmettre son message. La cérémonie annuelle de remise des diplômes vise avant tout à célébrer la réussite des quelque 350 finissants des programmes d’enseignement régulier qui décrochent un diplôme chaque année. Au total, l’ITHQ a ainsi décerné plus de 10 000 diplômes au cours de ses 43 ans d’histoire. 

Cet événement est aussi l’occasion de souligner la contribution de personnalités ayant œuvré dans l’industrie du tourisme, de l’hôtellerie et de la restauration sur la scène locale, nationale ou internationale. En 2011, l’ITHQ rendra également hommage à M. Jaume Tàpies, président de l’Association internationale des Relais & Châteaux et à M. Jean Saine, président et associé de Saine Marketing, deux grands ambassadeurs de l’Institut.

En décernant un diplôme honoris causa à Ferran Adrià, l’ITHQ veut interpeler ses élèves quelque soit leur programme d’études. M. Adrià est l’exemple d’un professionnel qui a su intégrer les connaissances d’experts issus de différents domaines (gastronomie, culture, histoire, design industriel) afin de faire évoluer la cuisine. C’est cette ouverture d’esprit que l’ITHQ travaille à développer chez ses élèves.  

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Chartier's aromatic work in prestigious Lustau NewsLetter.

Papilles : when simplicity meets culinary creativity

A new television show this winter, on Télé-Québec

 

June 7, 2011 | Montreal

Starting in January on Télé-Québec, a brand new cooking show will tantalize every epicurean: Papilles. Hosted by sommelier-researcher-cook François Chartier, the festive show will introduce unpretentious aromatic recipes, reinvented classics, food and beverage pairings cleverly chosen and easily accessible, as well as surprising associations!

 

Each week, along with his accomplice and colleague, Chef Stéphane Modat, François Chartier will welcome a guest-taster who will participate in cooking recipes, tasting dishes, enjoying surprising associations, and food and beverage pairings (wine, beer, sake, rum, tea, coffee, etc.). Together, they will prepare three main dishes, as well as a fourth, according to the week’s chosen theme. Additionally, the host will propose a choice of beverages and wines from various price points, which will serve in the creation of recipes and in accompanying the week’s menu.

“If François Chartier’s knowledge of wines, cuisines and food and drinks parings are impressive, it is his laid-back, dynamic and simple way of communicating his findings that is particularly admirable. With Stéphane Modat, they are, without a doubt, a team whose expertise on aromas is definitely worth being discovered on screen”, declares Martin Roy, General Manager of Programming and New Media at Télé-Québec.

Unortodox combinations and perfect harmonies

Sushi reinvented to delight red wine lovers; lamb with rosemary and Riesling; basil and Sauvignon; Indian cuisine and maple syrup; taste of cold, such as that of mint, and taste of warmth, such as that of pepper, are but a few examples of aromatic associations which will be featured on the show. It is high time for discoveries!

 

MC2: a perfect chemistry

The international reputation of François Chartier is already well-established! Sommelier by trade, he remains the only Canadian to have won the famous Grand Prix Sopexa International, which crowns the world’s best sommelier in French wines and spirits. It is chiefly thanks to him if sommellerie has flourished so rapidly in Québec. However, he who has tasted the finest wines is also known as an outstanding populariser along side Christian Bégin on the show Curieux Bégin, which aired on Télé-Québec for four years.

 

The title of the show, Papilles, is a tribute to his book Papilles et Molécules (Taste Buds and Molecules), winner of the prestigious accolade World’s Best Innovative Food Book, at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in 2010. Inspired by the aromatic innovations in this book, the show’s recipes will always be accessible and easy to make, any day of the week.

Chef Stéphane Modat – who toiled, for five years, at the renowned Utopie restaurant in Québec City – and François Chartier form the MC2 Duo. In June 2010, they published the book Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules, offering 85 unexpected and accessible recipes created with foods that have complimentary aromatic signatures. The duo is currently developing hundreds of recipes which they will share with Télé-Québec viewers, premiering on the show Papilles in the fall.

 

 

Production: Zone 3

Broadcast: Winter 2012

 

 

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Information:

Catherine Lebœuf, 514 521-2424 extension: 2129

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Outstanding sommelier for more than 20 years, François Chartier is gradually positioning himself in the vanguard of national and international gastronomical trends. His collaboration with renowned chef Ferran Adria, well established by his book “Papilles et Molécules” (Taste buds and Molecules), will be actively pursued in 2011 and will reach other grand master chefs.

François Chartier’s work was recently recognized with multiple distinctions yet again.  Published in 2009, his book “Papilles et Molécules” was adapted for English Canada by publishing house McLelland & Stewart under the title “Taste Buds and Molecules”.  Publishing rights were also granted in Hungary and Russia while negotiations with an American editor are still actively under way.

The English version of “Papilles et Molécules”, Taste buds and Molecules, is in the running for a “Best of the World Gourmand Award” after the original French publishing won in 2010 the title of Best Food book in the world in the Innovation category.  “Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules”, written in collaboration with chef Stéphane Modat, will also represent Canada in the same international contest, the winners of which will be revealed in Paris this March.

Furthermore, national newspaper “The Globe & Mail” chose François Chartier amongst the 45 Canadians who have most influenced world change in 2010.  This important distinction recognizes François Chartier’s research work, scientific contribution and important role in the elaboration and application of the theory of aromas in cooking.  The book “Papilles et Molécules” (Taste buds and Molecules) indeed presents the results of the author’s efforts dedicated to the definition and demonstration of a theory of the aromas that is based on molecules found in foods and wine.

François Chartier’s discoveries fascinate leaders in gastronomy, as is indicated by the honor granted to “Papilles et Molécules” by StarChefs.com, an American organization.  The book was chosen between the three most important works on cooking and gastronomy last year.

In 2011, François Chartier will be more present on the world gastronomy scene, where he will continue to host conferences, advance his research and participate in progressive cooking events.  This will not keep him from being active in Québec and Canada.  He pursues his weekly collaboration with newspapers La Presse and Le Soleil and will join the team of television show Curieux Bégin, aired on Télé-Québec, this season.  In December 2010, François Chartier has also announced his collaboration with the Collège Lasalle for the next five years.  This Montreal private educational institution has developed a new cooking and sommellerie program with a curriculum based essentially on François Chartier’s work and research.

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